How to Negotiate Better - The Psychology of Negotiations and Negotiating Like a Pro

There's a lot of thinking and practicing that goes into learning how to negotiate better. A great negotiator has a fundamental understanding of human psychology and how to appeal to different kinds of people, and how to create value to fulfill different kinds of wants and needs in people. Use these tips and master the psychology of negotiations and soon you'll be negotiating like a pro.

4 Angle Grinder

138. Research into John Grinder and Richard Bandier. Read their books. Highly recommended for some POWER parts, especially on how to control your own mind.

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139. In a world of skeptics, the honest man wins. Be open and honest about what you want and can offer. Have integrity. Stand out.

140. The mating dance is perhaps the most intricate negotiation there is as far as the psychology of negotiations is concerned. Practice approaching a member of the opposite sex and trying to immediately gain interest. I'm single. Email me with pictures if you're an attractive, intelligent, ambitious woman who knows what she wants in life and goes after it...if you can handle a challenge, that is...;)

141. Offer a random, non-"square" number as your purchase price offer. People are MUCH less likely in my experience to negotiate back after you give a price of , 271 than if you say 0,000. Why? I don't know why really, I just know HOW...and isn't that enough? It WORKS! Maybe because the more specific you are the more your mind seems made up? Trust me, this is a key part in learning how to negotiate better.

142. Write "CASH" after your offer. "Cash is king" remember. Offer to Purchase: , 271 CASH. Why worry over how to negotiate if they don't even think it's negotiable because of how you presented the offer?

143. Use "And of course I'd expect to get a discount for that...(silence)" when you uncover something negative. Wait for them to speak, justify, or argue as the psychology of negotiations in most people will prompt them to fill the silence because most people feel uncomfortable. They may concede the point. If not, let it go and come back to the point later from a different angle.

144. Try this and you will be ASTOUNDED at the results. Go to your local grocery store and say verbatim: "I need to go in front of you because I'm in a rush" and over 8 times out of 10 they will let you. Then try "I'm in a rush, may I go in front of you?" and you'll get a "no" HALF the time. Now, for the fun part. Try this: "I need to go in front of you because I need to buy these groceries". Again, the person in front of you will let you almost 8 times out of 10. Yes, I've done it...and no it doesn't seem to make sense! I mean, of course I need to buy groceries-- that's why I'm in line at the grocery store! There are THREE differences between what gets a high "yes" rate and what doesn't among these examples. Figure them out and use them in negotiation tactics you create on your own...and you will be well on your way to negotiating like a pro.

145. Learn to use the "pregnant pause" right in the ------ middle of the sentence. It builds anticipation. Anticipation builds value. Value is what negotiations hinge on. Do it at the right time and soon you'll be negotiating like a pro.

146. Have two people play off each other. There is nothing that brings you leverage as quickly as having two parties that want the same thing from you. Invite them both to be present to see that car you're selling- at the same time.

147. Never look impressed or eager. This is How to Negotiate 101. Poker face, ladies and gentlemen. Do the happy dance AFTER you're in different rooms and your great deal is signed and sealed. There are exceptions of course, but you'll pick that up with experience.

148. Assume the other guy needs you. The toughest part of how to negotiate better is often figuring out how badly the other guy needs you. The psychological effect of thinking the other guy has options will likely lower your confidence level during the tougher parts of your negotiation. KNOW HE NEEDS YOU and you have the psychology of negotiations on your side when you come from this belief.

149. If it has to be done right, leave it to the pros. You can read this article backwards and forwards, up and down, left and right, and still not come close to mastering negotiation. I'm qualified to say that because I certainly haven't "mastered negotiations"- and I wrote the article. So, here is a last piece of advice that will likely be more valuable than anything I just said if you have a situation that needs negotiating like a pro: When in doubt, or caught over your head, get a pro to negotiate for you. Pay them what they're worth. Skillful negotiation may be the highest value skill in the world.

150. Take a hostage negotiator from your local police SWAT team to lunch. Take NOTES. Whoa! What a rush! These guys know how to negotiate better than anyone. They get in the other guy's head like nobody's business. We're not talking a business deal, here. We're talking life or death and these guys have had the most intense on-the-job training imaginable. Pick their brain.

151. Make a great first impression. Use the "halo effect" to your advantage. People see us subconsciously through the lens of our first impression we made on them. Don't let this be sloppy, rude, arrogant, incompetent or another negative.

152. "That's not fair!" People want to believe they are fair. That's not only true psychology of negotiations but in life we want to be fair (and very much to have others believe we are fair). So, when negotiating, tell the other party when they aren't being fair. Do it LIGHTLY, jokingly, almost but not quite as if in the voice you would use in chiding a child saying: "Now, Johnny, you know you shouldn't be doing that..."

153. How to negotiate better? Invoke the law of reciprocity. Give and then receive.

154. ____________________________ ? Do YOU have a negotiation tactic powerful enough to share. Let me know about it, email me at mysuccesscoach_dan -at- yahoo and share...

How to Negotiate Better - The Psychology of Negotiations and Negotiating Like a Pro

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Hitachi G12SS 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder

Black Friday Hitachi G12SS 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder 2011 Deals

Nov 28, 2011 13:03:13

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Black Friday Hitachi G12SS 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder Feature

• Powerful 5Amp motor
• Low Profile Gear Case
• Small Grip Perimeter
• External Brush Access
• Includes 1 Grinding Wheel

Black Friday Hitachi G12SS 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder Overview

The Hitachi 4 1/2in. Angle Grinder is lightweight and compact offering performance and durability. It's perfect for grinding metal and masonry, removing rust and paint, and sanding various surfaces. At just over 3 lbs., the high power-to-weight ratio allows for optimal control and maneuverability. Low-profile gear housing and a compact body make working in tight areas possible. Wheel Diameter (in.): 4 1/2, Amps: 5, Height (in.): 5.1, Speed (RPM): 11,000, Switch Type: Slide, Spindle Thread Size: 5/8in. - 11, Spindle Lock: Yes, Side Handle: Yes, Variable Speed: No, Wheel Included: No, Wrench Included: Yes, Case Included: No, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 5.7 x 12.7 x 5.1

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Safety Measures When You Are Working With Surface Grinder Parts

There are a lot of surface grinder parts involved in any unit. Take the case of the angle die grinder for example. In this, there are as many as 25 to 30 parts involved. Here are some of them - the retaining ring, O ring, the ball bearing, spiral bevel gear, wheel cover, spindle, grip holder, woodruff key, tapping screw, compression spring, rubber pad, and many more. With so many grinder parts involved, you will naturally have to be careful. You must know how to work with them correctly, and you must know what to do when a particular part is not working.

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But you can consider yourself lucky here. Here's why. The fact is, the automobile manufacturers are quite dogmatic with their patented components, and as a result, these parts do not work in vehicles that are not made for them. However, the small tool manufacturers are far more practical in this matter. They make components that are interchangeable, and so, the parts would most probably work when they are fitted into another.

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If one particular item is unavailable, another marque will probably do just fine. In fact, professionals seldom discard a damaged or inoperative surface grinder. They would keep it in reserve for cannibalizing the spare parts. And there is no reason as to why you too cannot do so. If the overload relief switch in your running surface grinder goes kaput, replace it immediately with the 'dead' one lying in the store. But first of all, remove the power cord and keep your eyes well protected by using industrial goggles as part of the safety measures needed while servicing a power grinder.

Surface Grinder Parts - The Fault May Be Elsewhere

The fault in a surface grinder need not necessarily be because of a defective component. There could be several reasons due to which it can falter. You should know that dust and dirt are principal enemies of grinder parts. So you should dismantle the unit whenever you find that it is not working properly. As you open the outer housing, you are sure to be confronted with layer upon layer of dust and debris that will obstruct most of the unit's fast moving area. Remove the offending material carefully, and the other faulty areas will show themselves up. In most cases, you are likely to come across clogged carbon brushes that will halter the performance of the grinder. Replace the brush if necessary and you get a new surface grinder, practically free of cost.

Safety Measures When You Are Working With Surface Grinder Parts

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Black Decker Table Saw

Recipe - Bachelor's 30 Minute Start To Finish Steak Dinner

A long time ago when I was a bachelor I developed a recipe for a quick and delicious steak dinner with a baked potato and a vegetable side dish that took me just thirty minutes from start to finish.

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I still use it today even though I am now married for thirteen years. When I am shopping in a supermarket, I like to be in and out as quickly and as efficiently as possible. I like to do the same in my kitchen.

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This recipe works for pork chops and chicken as well. You can use some of the ideas here for other dinners.

This isn't just a recipe, but it is also an outline of the thinking and strategy of preparing a dinner efficiently using one step to time another.

Basics:

I use an electric oven but you can use a gas oven instead. A microwave is indispensable to this method.

You will also need:

A metal broiling pan Aluminum foil.

Setup:

Place an oven rack 3-4 inches below your broiler heating element (about 10 CM) as your broiling rack. On an electric oven, this is usually your top rack in your oven. On a gas oven, this may be in a separate area below your oven. Place a second oven rack at about the midway point in your oven.

Ingredients:

One steak for each person. Soy sauce. Garlic powder. Ground black pepper. Thyme. Russet potatoes. Vegetables, frozen, or fresh to steam.

Ingredient Tips:

I prefer NY Strip Steak with the bone in, about 3/4 inch thick (about 2 CM) thick, well marbled with fat and with some fat along the edge. Five minutes of broiling per side usually makes a medium-rare steak, but test your broiler before cooking for someone else. If you use thinner steaks, or boneless ones, you may have to shorten your broiling time by a minute on one or both sides. Experiment. You can use sirloin, tri-tip, or the cut of your choice. This recipe works on flank steak as a London Broil very nicely. You can even broil minute steaks but they are usually so thin you should only broil them for about two to three minutes on each side. Expriment. I like garlic powder with parsley, California style, but you can use plain. I use peppercorns that come in a container with a grinder (a great invention), but you can use pre-ground can pepper if you must. I also use dry thyme (you know, from an herb bottle) but you can use fresh if you have it. You can use Rosemary on pork or chicken, but go light if your Rosemary is fresh.

You can hear Emeril cursing about now, yelling something that rhymes with "Bam!" "Garlic powder, indeed! Herbs from a bottle, good heavens!" Trust me, dinner will be delicious. I'll put one of my steaks beside one from Delmonico's anytime.

I'll give you a recipe using frozen vegetables first and add a variation for steaming fresh vegetables later.

Procedure:

Potatoes (First Side): Wash potatoes and pierce two-three times on each side with large-tined serving fork, or a regular fork to allow steam to vent. Place potatoes in microwave, still wet, covered with an inverted plastic bowl or a wet paper towel. Set timer for 5 minutes for large baking potatoes. Set stove to broil while your potatoes cook on their first side and keep your oven door closed while your oven warms up. If you use a gas oven and your oven and broiler are separate, start your oven as well and set it for about 450 F (about 230 C).

Prepare your steaks while your potatoes cook on their first side:

Line a metal broiling pan with aluminum foil, being sure to have foil turn up at all four sides. Wash steaks and pat dry. Cut the fat at edge of each steak from the outside to just through the fat and into the meat, about every 3/4 inch (about 2 CM) along the fat line. Cut at right angles to the fat line. You are not cutting off the fat but you are isolating pieces of fat from each other. In this way, each section of fat can each shrivel on its own and not distort your steak (meat and fat shrink differently). Place your steaks on foil best side down.

Seasoning Your Steaks:

Sprinkle with soy sauce to lightly cover your steaks. Sprinkle garlic powder over steaks to taste. Sprinkle thyme over steaks to taste. Grind black pepper onto steaks to taste. Pat herbs in with fingers. Turn your steaks over and repeat with seasoning with its best side up. Broil the best side up first. Be sure to give your hands a wash after. Emeril is right: If you don't was your hands, the Food Police will get you.

Potatoes (Second Side):

About this point, your potatoes will be done for the first side. Turn them over and heat for another five minutes in microwave for the second side. Be careful when you turn them because they will be hot and there may be steam. Be sure your potatoes are still moist for the second five minutes of microwaving. Remoisten them if required but don't drench them.

Vegetable Prep:

If you are using frozen vegetables, follow directions for your product. I usually put a little water (about 1/4 inch or about 0.6 CM) in a microwave vessel and add my frozen veggies. I cover the veggies while they microwave. Set your prepared vegetables aside for now.

Steaks (First Side):

About this point, your potatoes will be completely done in your microwave. Place your potatoes on your middle oven rack to finish them off in your oven. Use metal tongs because your potatoes will be hot. Place your broiler pan with steaks on your broiler rack.

On an electric oven:

Close your oven door partway and keep your door cracked open a bit. Most electric ovens have a preset stop for this. Set your timer for 5 minutes.

Steaks (Second Side):

When your timer goes off, take out your steaks and turn them over using oven mitts for your pan and tongs for your steaks. Be sure to use dry oven mitts. Don't ask me about how I know to use dry mitts. Put your broiler pan with steaks back on your broiling rack and continue broiling.

Cook Your Veggies:

Place your frozen vegetables in microwave while your steaks are broiling on their second side. Set your timer for five minutes.

Finale:

When your microwaves stops, take out your steaks from your broiler rack and your potatoes from your oven using oven mitts and tongs. Take out your cooked vegetables from your microwave. Let your steaks sit for a minute or two while and rest while you get your plates and flatware ready. Slice each baked potato lengthwise across the top. Squeeze each end towards the center to open your baked potato nicely. Don't forget to use the juices in your broiling pan. Fold a corner of your aluminum foil to make a spout and pour juices on your steak and baked potato. You can add a sprig of fresh parsley as a garnish but you don't need to. Plate up and serve.

Receive accolades for your dinner.

Orchestration Of Events:

As you can see, I orchestrate events so your cooking or preparation of one ingredient correlates with your timing of another.

For example, cooking your potatoes in your microwave takes about ten minutes. This is a good amount of time to allow your oven to warm up.

Even though you are broiling and not baking, elements take time to come up to temperature.We will use your oven's heat for continuing to cook your baked potatoes for better flavor than if they are just microwaved. Microwaving your potatoes cuts down oven time.

Cooking your vegetable for five minutes corresponds with the last five minutes of broiling your steaks.

Baked Potato Tid-Bits:

This method of microwaving baked potatoes and then finishing them in your oven works best for large Russet potatoes. Red and white potatoes don't seem to need as much microwaving as the large Russet one do. If you overdo microwaving potatoes, your potatoes will shrivel up and could come out looking like prunes, even tasting like leathery prunes. Experiment first on non-Russet potatoes before preparing a dinner for you and someone special. This method relies on the skin of your potato being mostly intact.

The intact skin traps steam and your potatoes cook efficiently on the inside.

If you slice your potatoes, they won't cook nearly as well in your microwave because the steam will escape. Actually, sliced potatoes may not cook well at all.

Serve with meat juices, butter, sour cream, chives, salt and pepper, bacon bits, grated cheese, or whatever your cholesterol levels allow.

Steamed Vegetable Variation:

I often steam vegetables these days; whereas, as a bachelor I almost always cooked frozen vegetables. Steamed vegetables have the best taste and the most nutrition, I believe, because you do not lose a lot of nutrients in your cooking water and the cells of the vegetable are not broken down by freezing.

As I promised, here is your alternative for cooking steamed vegetables instead of frozen:

When your potatoes are in your microwave for the first time, prepare your steaks. When your potatoes are in your microwave for the second time, prepare your vegetables to steam. You will use a large pot with a colander that fits your pot, and a lid that fits your colander. We like a medley of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and onions, but you use whatever veggies you like.

Cut your vegetables up as you wish and add them your colander you will use for steaming.

When your steaks go in for the first time:

Place a large pot with one to two inches of water (about 2.5 to 5 CM) and let your water come to a boil while your steaks are cooking. Leave your vegetables you want to steam in your colander on the side for now.

When you put your steaks in your broiler for the second time, put your colander with vegetables on your pot of boiling water and cover it with a lid.

Sometimes three minutes of steaming, not five minutes, is enough. Vegetables taste best if you don't overdo your steaming.

Everyone who has had one of these steak dinners raves about how good it is.

Notes and Further Tips:

I'm sure you could do better and use fresh, crushed garlic and fresh thyme, but you do not have to and the powdered versions taste just fine. Just buy a fresh bottle now and then. Soy sauce adds salt so I omit salt in the recipe. You can add salt to taste but the health police tell us to go easy on salt. Soy sauce acts as a marinade. It adds a subtle, very positive flavor to the taste of your steaks.

You can prepare your steaks ahead of time and let them marinade in your refrigerator or on your counter, but then this recipe would take longer than thirty minutes.

Okay, Emeril. You can return to a normal color now. We're done.

Try this easy-to-do recipe for a thirty minute steak dinner. It's great for a date or for dinner with your wife. Either will be impressed, but I don't recommend having a girlfriend when you are married.

Recipe - Bachelor's 30 Minute Start To Finish Steak Dinner

4 Angle Grinder

Scary Outdoor Halloween Decorating Ideas Battery Power Tools

Makita 9557PB 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch

Black Friday Makita 9557PB 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch 2011 Deals

Nov 25, 2011 08:09:41

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Black Friday Makita 9557PB 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch Feature

• 4-1/2-inch angle grinder with paddle switch seals motor and bearings from contamination
• 7.5 amp motor delivers a no-load speed of 10,000 RPM
• Small circumference barrel grip for improved handling; spindle lock for easy wheel changes
• Includes grinding wheel, wrench, side handle, flange and wheel guard
• 1-year limited warranty

Black Friday Makita 9557PB 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch Overview

With labyrinth construction, the Makita 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch seals the motor and bearings from contamination. This grinder features an extra large paddle switch, a small circumference barrel grip for easy handling, and a spindle lock for easy wheel changes. The high power-to-weight, double insulated 7.5 Amp motor delivers a no-load speed of 10,000 RPM. This angle grinder comes with a 1-year warranty.

Black Friday Makita 9557PB 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch Specifications

With labyrinth construction, the Makita 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch seals the motor and bearings from contamination. This grinder features an extra large paddle switch, a small circumference barrel grip for easy handling, and a spindle lock for easy wheel changes. The high power-to-weight, double insulated 7.5 Amp motor delivers a no-load speed of 10,000 RPM. This angle grinder comes with a 1-year warranty.

What's in the Box
4-1/2-inch angle grinder with paddle switch, grinding wheel, wrench, side handle, flange and wheel guard.

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Process of Steel Truss and Steel Reinforced Concrete Detailing

Now a days Steel truss are widely used in residential and industrial construction and that's why need of steel truss detailing are raided day to day. A steel truss, or lattice structure, is a structural assembly of small interconnected elements. Trusses can be designed to suit a wide range of requirements. There is considerable design flexibility for roof trusses, but simple rules can be used as initial guidelines. Steel trusses offer effective routes for distributing services. It can have a rectangular configuration, avoiding the potential intrusion of diagonal members, if the joints are rigid.

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The nature of a steel truss allows for the analysis of the structure uses a few assumptions and the application of Newton's laws of motion according to branch of physics known as statics. For purposes of analysis, trusses are assumed to be pin jointed where the straight components meet. This assumption means that members of the truss will only act in tension or compression.

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The individual steel truss frame shall be fabricated and hot-dip galvanized in the shop. The frame unit
From splice connector to splice connector shall be fully assembled by welding the main truss members and bolting the transverse angle members as shown in the plans. All necessary attachment plates such as the bearing stiffeners, sole plates, grating support plates and light support member elements should be attached in the shop as well.

The method of temporarily shoring the truss components shall provide for a level and plumb alignment so that excessive force is not required to align the truss components and it can prevent damage to the truss system.

Steel reinforced concrete:

When steel is embedded in concrete in a manner that assists it in carrying imposed loads, the combination is known as reinforced concrete. The steel may consist of welded wire fabric or expanded metal mesh but more often it consists of reinforcing bars.

Today, many of the buildings located in industrialized nations use steel reinforced concrete to make the buildings stronger and better able to withstand the ravages of time and the weather. Reinforcing the concrete that will be used on the building adds tensile strength to the concrete, making it much stronger and more flexible that regular concrete, which helps prevent cracking and breakage. Steel reinforced concrete can be used in a number of building applications, including floors, beams, supports, walls, and frames.

Steel-reinforced concrete bridges are among the most common type of bridge built. In fact, the vast majority of highway bridges is of this type and is most frequently encountered along interstate highways. For added strength and support, the concrete used in constructing these bridges is often reinforced with imbedded steel bars, commonly called rebar.

Reinforced concrete can fail due to inadequate strength, leading to mechanical failure, or due to a reduction in its durability. Corrosion and freeze cycles may damage poorly designed or constructed reinforced concrete.

Process of Steel Truss and Steel Reinforced Concrete Detailing

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Black Friday Makita 9557PBX1 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Aluminum Case 2011 Deals

Nov 24, 2011 08:08:40

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Black Friday Makita 9557PBX1 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Aluminum Case Feature

• Aluminum case
• 4 - 4 1/2 grinding wheels
• Diamond wheel
• metal gear housing
• paddle switch

Black Friday Makita 9557PBX1 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder with Aluminum Case Overview

Protective zig-zig varnish seals motor from contaminants by forming a barrier under rotation. 7.5 Amp motor design for high output power in a more compact tool (only 3.5 lbs.).Thicker coil wires are wound more closely to reduce heat and energy loss. All ball bearing design and metal gear housing for durability. Rotatable gear housing rotates 90 for cutting applications.

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DEWALT D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder Kit

Black Friday DEWALT D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder Kit 2011 Deals

Nov 23, 2011 08:50:10

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Black Friday DEWALT D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder Kit Feature

• 10-amp AC/DC 11,000 rpm motor designed for faster material removal and higher overload protection
• Dust ejection system provides durability by ejecting damaging dust and debris particles that enter the tool through air intake vents
• Low-profile jam-pot gear case provides precise gear alignment for a smoother, quieter transmission
• One-piece brush arm prevents brush hang-up due to dust ingestion
• Quick-change wheel release allows tool-free wheel removal without need for a wrench

Black Friday DEWALT D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small-Angle Grinder Kit Overview

The DEWALT D28402K4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder features a powerful 10 amp motor and an ergonomic body that's easy to handle. This DEWALT also features an exclusive Dust Ejection System and epoxy-coated motor to provide optimal protection of internal components.

4 1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder Kit At a Glance: 1.6-horsepower, 10 amp motor delivers 11,000 rpm Compact, easy-to-control tool body fits in tight places Dust Ejection System removes particles for longer tool life Includes two-position side handle, depressed center wheel, keyless adjustable guard, wrench, and kit box Three-year limited warranty, one-year free service, 90-day money-back guarantee

Grinder features a powerful 10 amp motor, and it comes in a sturdy kit box. View larger.

Powerful 10 Amp Motor for Fast Material Removal
Versatile and aggressive, this small angle grinder features a 1.6-horsepower, 10 amp motor that's designed to deliver 11,000 rpm for efficient material removal. Its jam-pot design provides precise gear alignment and allows the grinder's transmission to be smooth and quiet. Also, the low-profile gear case allows the tool to fit easily into tight spaces, so you waste less time hand finishing hard-to-reach areas.

Designed for Comfort and Convenience
Getting the job done quickly and effectively is all about maneuverability. This paddle-switch tool weighs 4.6 pounds and features a switch lock-on and multiposition side handle for multiple grip options. Rubber over-mold on the side handle also reduces vibration and fatigue and allows for excellent control--no matter how tough the job is.

The grinder also features a keyless adjustable guard that allows for hassle-free tuning. In addition, the grinder's matching wheel flanges allow it to be used with a wide range of common accessories.

Performance and Durability
Grinding applications produce a lot of dust and debris, which can be tough on motors and mechanisms. This grinder features a patented DEWALT Dust Ejection System, which improves durability by ejecting damaging dust particles that enter the tool. In addition, a one-piece brush arm prevents brush hang-up due to dust or debris. For durability, this grinder's auto-off brushes shut the tool down when the brushes need replacing, which helps you avoid tool damage and minimizes the cost of upkeep

Quick, Easy Wheel Changes and Maintenance
An oversized, spindle-lock button and Quick-Change wheel release keep wheel removal tool free. A keyless adjustable guard also provides tool-free adjustment to increase productivity.

The D28402K 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder Kit comes with a DEWALT warranty package that includes a three-year limited warranty, a one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money-back guarantee.

What's in the Box
D28402K DEWALT 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder, two-position side handle, depressed center wheel, keyless adjustable guard, wrench, and kit box.

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4 Reasons to Make and Use the Versatile Oland Tool

Woodworking tool suppliers have risen to the challenge of the woodturner's desire for more and better tools. Most woodturners are self taught with the result that beginners are not sure what tools to use and can become convinced that a new tool will greatly increase their woodturning ability. Quickly they realize that a great deal of money can be spent on tools and in fact many turners own tools with a value greater than that of their wood lathe itself. The Oland tool is a change from this position with its value and versatility.

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There are 4 things to consider when thinking of adding this tool to your woodturning tool arsenal.

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1. Typically the Oland tool is made in the home shop. This a member of the family of tools known an inserted tip tool. Quite simply, these are designed to be easy to make and maintain in the home shop. A shaft is drilled and tapped to hold a high speed steel cutting tip, the shaft is inserted into a handle turned by the woodturner, and the tip is placed in the shaft. Once sharpened it is ready to go for a fraction of the cost of most commercial tools.

2. Tools wear out with use and especially with sharpening. Every time a tool is used, a bit of steel is ground away. Woodturners tend to sharpen much more often than most other woodworkers and use grinders instead of honing stones. Grinders remove more steel than do stones and the tools wear away faster than regular chisels. The Oland tool uses a cutting tip that lasts well and is easily replaced for one or two dollars. Plus it is not necessary to get used to a tool that steadily becomes shorter and then learn to use a newly purchased tool of regular length. It is no great chore, but can be a bit off putting for some.

3. Woodturners use gouges for spindles and bowls. These gouges are of different shape, sharpening style, and generally length. In particular, beginners usually start off with spindles and spindle gouges almost always part of beginner woodturning sets of tools. Soon the beginner wants to try faceplate turning and usually bowls. The spindle gouges are not suited for bowls and bowl gouges often cost more than the whole beginner set. Oland tools may be used for either spindles or faceplate work and are ideally suited for bowl turning and at a cost of less than most single gouges let alone a set.

4. Tips for the Oland tool are easily replaced and may be ground in an infinite variety of shapes and angles. The most familiar is a side view of forty-five degrees and a top view of the tip slightly rounded. However it is simple to have tips with sharper angles for speciality cuts, the edges brought back for cuts similar to an Irish grind on a bowl gouge or less angle for scraping the inside of a hollow form. Individual, inexpensive cutting tips with various grinds are easily kept and quickly exchanged in a few seconds.

The Oland tool is a great addition to the woodturner's tool arsenal. It is easy to make and simple to maintain as well as being a versatile cutting tool for both spindles and bowls. Woodturners can use it to make a great craft even more enjoyable.

4 Reasons to Make and Use the Versatile Oland Tool

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DEWALT D28114 4-1/2-Inch/5-Inch High-Performance Angle Grinder

Black Friday DEWALT D28114 4-1/2-Inch/5-Inch High-Performance Angle Grinder 2011 Deals

Nov 21, 2011 01:19:24

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Black Friday DEWALT D28114 4-1/2-Inch/5-Inch High-Performance Angle Grinder Feature

• 13.0 Amp/2.3hp, 11,000 rpm DEWALT built G55 (ac) motor designed for faster material removal and higher overload protection
• Dust Ejection System provides durability by ejecting damaging dust and debris particles that enter the tool through the air intake vents
• Quick-Change Wheel Release allows tool free wheel removal
• Complete Electronic Control provides multiple advanced technology features such as E-Clutch, Power-Off, and Power-Loss Reset
• Dual abrasion protection provides increased motor protection from damaging dust and debris ingestion; One-piece brush arm prevents brush hang-up due to dust ingestion

Black Friday DEWALT D28114 4-1/2-Inch/5-Inch High-Performance Angle Grinder Overview

Designed to prevent dust that enters via the air intake vents from jeopardizing performance, the powerful and efficient D28114 from DEWALT is built to last. Thanks to a 13.0 amp, 2.3 HP, 11,000 RPM motor, this small angle grinder works quickly while preventing overload. Constantly losing your wrench after taking off wheels? You'll save time and stress thanks to the D28114's wheel release, which allows for fast changes without the need for additional tools. There's also a selection of special features to save you time and make working with this grinder more pleasant: an E-Clutch, Power-Off, and Power-Loss. And if vibrations make intense work hard on your body, you're sure to appreciate the two-position side handle.

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Bowl Turning - Getting Started

In the winter of 2010 I decided to pursue a private study of bowl turning. I read every book I could find and watched YouTube videos over and over before I purchased my Nova DVR XP lathe, a 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch Crown bowl gouge, a parting tool, a large scraper, a Makita right angle drill, belt sander, orbital sander, grinding wheel, Sthil chainsaw, buffing wheel, sanding discs, sand paper, CA glue, walnut oil, lacquer, beeswax, rags, wood to build a heavy duty mounting surface for the lathe and sand bags to stabilize the table. I never took woodshop nor did I have any previous experience turning bowls. I had built a 2 story log cabin in Canada and always nurtured a love for wood and trees.

4 Angle Grinder

I ordered most of my turning equipment from the wood turners catalogue and have been amazed ever since on how the tools and equipment lived up to my expectations and arrived lightning fast.

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At the same time that I built my lathe table (per Nova DVR specifications downloaded from the internet), I set out to find sources for logs. I placed free ads on craigslist asking for large logs which resulted in my acquiring some very large Dutch Elm logs and some medium size Cypress logs. I also called various firewood suppliers, most of whom did not have whole logs available or wood that was favorable to wood turning. However, one tree cutter did contact me and he expressed a true love of wood and interest in helping me to find good wood. I drove out to his storage yard where I found large diameter logs of cedar, oak, pecan and massive slabs of black walnut that his father had saved and protected.

On another occasion I stopped by a firewood yard in the foothills and looked out upon an endless supply of huge rounds of ash, oak, and species unknown. I soon had a good stockpile of logs which I stacked in the shade of an avocado tree in my backyard and loosely covered with a plastic tarp. I kept the logs off the ground with pieces of firewood and timber I had lying around. On average, excluding the black walnut which was expensive, I could fill my Ford Explorer with large chunks of wood for to . In comparison, upon visiting stores that supply bowl blanks, I found that most resale blanks were both small and expensive. One blank could cost as much as a truckload of un-split firewood.

Not having a garage to house my equipment, I built a small shed using plywood and a tarp to protect my work area. I use a small BBQ cover to protect my lathe within the shed. My tools are readily available from a shelf below the lathe bench.

I purposely avoided purchasing costly equipment like a band saw or unnecessary tools like grinding guides, etc. My intention was to create natural looking rustic bowls using the least amount of equipment as possible.

There are so many opinions on what equipment and tools are needed, how to manipulate your tools, how to sharpen your tools, what is the right wood to use, and what constitutes an acceptable bowl...I decided to just plow through it, do my own thing, and learn as I go. The chain saw, lathe, bowl gouge, sander and grinder are at the heart of everything I do.

I began looking at other artist's bowls in artist shops and online. I saw the most beautifully finished hollow forms sitting behind glass on shelves...only 0.00! I also found web sites with really nice bowls for sale for such a low price that I can't imagine how the artist could pay for their turning supplies. These observations left me perplexed and, again, I just decided to do my own thing and see what happens.

My lack of experience and utilitarian interest in bowl turning caused me to think that my work would be sneered at by seasoned professionals. And so it was to my amazement that several of my bowls, sold privately or through silent auctions, were pieces that had visible sealed cracks, surface irregularities or warped sides. That's when I realized that I don't need to please other artists; there are people who find imperfections most interesting and I must admit that when fruit or a salad mix is placed in a bowl with various imperfections, the overall look is very appealing. I've had friends remind me not to move too far away from the rustic appeal of my first pieces and I have taken their suggestion to heart.

The Lathe

I love my Nova DVR XP. I looked at many other models including ones that I could not afford and inexpensive ones that required moving the belt across pulleys to change the turning speed. Now that I'm actually turning bowls I can't imagine using anything but a constant variable speed direct drive lathe that allows you to change speeds with the touch of a finger on a digital pad. This doesn't mean that the DVR XP is absolutely perfect...large out-of-round blanks can cause my heavy work bench to jump around at higher speeds, the safety mechanism that stops the machine during a significant "catch" can kick in too easily with large blanks turning at lower speeds, and there have been minor issues like a nut coming loose inside the housing. I've learned to correct or work around these issues with great satisfaction. I have NOT tried the add-on support for turning bowls over 16 inches in diameter but would imagine there will be some taxing of the lathe and my work station. The DVR was under 00.00 and was my only large ticket purchase. It was delivered by freight to my driveway and the delivery man helped me lift it onto my work station.

Why is it so important to be able to change speed quickly? You'll know the answer to that question when you make your first bowl. Initial gouging, finish gouging, scraping, sanding, applying a finish, buffing...you'll use a wide range of speeds to perform all these tasks.

Breaking the Rules

There's nothing wrong with being a strict disciplinarian. There's nothing wrong with proper training and education. It's in my nature to go-it-alone and a big part of the fun is learning as you go and experimenting with your own ideas. As an example; Everything I've read and watched on video about turning bowls showed mounting the bowl to shape the outside of the bowl, then remounting the bowl to shape the inside of the bowl. This involves using a faceplate and then using a chuck for the remainder of turning. I was amazed to learn that I could cut both the outside and inside without ever removing the faceplate and still NOT have screw holes in the bottom of my bowl. Why didn't anyone mention this?

Using firewood rather than expensive exotics, I am at liberty to increase the depth of my bowl blank by the length of screws used to secure the faceplate. I shape the outside of the bowl, including 75% of the bottom, leaving only that section of wood at the faceplate un-tooled, avoiding cutting too close to the plate. I then, without dismounting the blank, shape the rim and inside of the bowl and follow shaping with sanding and polishing. I then use a parting tool and finally a hand saw to separate the extra wood at the faceplate from the bottom of the bowl. A belt sander will level out the bottom.

Another rule breaker involves turning green or wet wood. I've found that the results depend on the wood, the amount of moisture and your willingness to deal with warping issues. Available data shows that you can turn a rough version of the bowl with even wall thickness and set the bowl aside for a few months in a cool area. I've read that you can put the bowl in paper bags until moisture is no longer evident on the bag. I am, at this point, too impatient to wait a few months and the only time I tried the paper bag trick, the bowl was covered in mold when I brought it out.

When I turn a damp or wet wood, one of three things occurs. 1) The bowl warps. One of my most treasured pieces was a deep warped Dutch Elm bowl. 2) Cracks develop. That's what CA glue is for. It works fantastic and the more you learn to use it the better the results. You can hand rub fine sawdust into the CA glue-soaked crack, apply additional thin CA glue then a dusting of more fine sawdust with a light rub to even things out. You will be able to sand the filler in less than an hour. I CA glue and/or fill all visible cracks immediately during and after turning and as needed during the drying process. OK, if you want to turn precision pieces free of any defects then this is not going to work. 3) The finishing process must be delayed. Lacquer finishes will dull from the moisture. Hardening oils will lock in the moisture. Set the bowl aside until finishing can take place. Depending on the amount of moisture and type of wood this may only take a few days or a few weeks. However, I have been applying a coat of walnut oil on all my green bowls immediately after turning and sanding. I have been sanding the green bowls with 80 thru 400 grit, wiping on a coat of walnut oil, re-sanding with 220 thru 400 grit to take down any raised grain and then setting the bowl aside. The longer the bowl is set aside the more chance that the bowl will warp and, thus, you will not be able to remount the bowl on the lathe for additional gouging or lathe sanding. 4) Nothing bad happens. I'm stupefied but it's the truth...it's happened many times. I turn a damp bowl, finish sand it, buff it out, wipe it down with walnut oil, leave it in a cool area of the house, turning it on top of paper bags and the bowl comes out fine. I've even applied coats of spray lacquer shortly thereafter. Ok, the lacquer may dimple or dull if water is evident and further finishing or buffing will be required. I had two bowls develop dark dotted lines under the lacquer finish and I'm having a hard time removing them. I'm now leaning towards letting the bowls dry after sanding, with a single coat of walnut oil rubbed into the wood.

The bottom line: other than some issues with cracks, which I repaired as needed with CA glue (fine, medium or thick), and some warping which I kept or re-tooled to remove, I've turned many really cool looking green bowls without any problem. I turned 3 bowls that were damp or wet in the past week. One has gone oblong, one has rim edge bumps, two are in fine condition. The two that have minor disfiguration were so wet that my face plate was opaque during turning. The two that came out normal, except that I re-turned the rim, were damp but not saturated.

Finishing

I've experimented with walnut oil, which I'm told will not go bad, various hand rub finishes, polyurethane, lacquer, bees wax, carnauba wax, buffing compounds, etc. Lacquer (3-4 coats) gives a hard glossy finish and if you wait a few weeks it will buff out like glass. I use spray cans purchased at 10$ a pop from Rocklers. It took a while to get the technique down, don't be discouraged.

I was buffing the lacquer finish, walnut oil finish, and/or carnauba wax finish out as early as possible but nothing can beat applying the finish and allowing it to harden or set up before buffing. I just received a Beal buffing system that I'm trying out on the lathe. It's unbelievable! There are 3 large thick buffing wheels, a large bar of tripoli compound for taking out fine scratches, a large bar of white diamond for polishing and a thin bar of carnauba wax for finishing. I tried it on a lacquer finished bowl which had previously been buffed using a small wheel, tripoli compound and then carnauba wax. The difference between using separate wheels for each compound and the tripoli, white diamond, carnauba combination was amazing to behold. The bowl has a true glass finish.

Most recently I have been watching Elmer Adams (now deceased) videos on YouTube. The way he finished his large bowls is to soak the bowl in a 4 part Deft clear Danish oil and 1 part Defthane solution in a tub for 12 hours, completely saturating the bowl. He drains off the oil and then applies 5 coats of the same mixture by hand, buffing out each coat with Tripoli compound; using white diamond compound and Renaissance wax on the final coat. No spray, no lacquer...People have told me that a bowl saturated in oils take forever to dry. I am going to try a more conventional approach, applying pure tung oil cut 4/1 with a thinner to promote penetration, followed by 2/1 thinned tung oil applications with 24 hour drying and sanding in between coats.

Spending Money vs. Making Money

My motivation for making bowls is NOT making money. However, I don't want this hobby to be a hole that all my extra cash disappears in. I DO want to sell the bowls I make. When you first start out it seems that you're experimenting with equipment, tools and supplies that keep piling up the charges on your credit card bill. By avoiding purchasing fancy equipment I can do without and refining the turning and finishing processes, the amount of time and effort I put into a bowl is diminishing. Once I know how to select and sharpen my tools for a particular task, how to most effectively shape and hollow out the bowl, and understand the most direct method of developing a nice finish I will have a systematic approach to creating a bowl that others will find pleasing. At this point the cost per bowl will stabilize and I should see the returns grow accordingly. OK, this isn't a one year turn around but I'm in this for the long haul and I love doing it. I told my wife, when I retire, every bowl I sell represents a dinner for two or a night out on the town. I also intend for the returns to pay for supplies including raw wood for turning.

Bowl Turning - Getting Started

4 Angle Grinder

Black Friday Neiko Heavy Duty 1/4-Inch Angle Air Die Grinder 2011 Deals

Nov 19, 2011 18:02:51

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Black Friday Neiko Heavy Duty 1/4-Inch Angle Air Die Grinder Feature

• Angle-head design for easier use, more natural grip
• 20,000 RPM free-speed with only 4 CFM air consumption
• Lever throttle for feather-touch control
• Rear-air flow keeps exhaust away from your work
• 6-inch in length, 1.5 lb working weight

Black Friday Neiko Heavy Duty 1/4-Inch Angle Air Die Grinder Overview

Air Die Grinders are one of the most useful and versatile tools in any workshop; this grinder is even more so because of it's angle-head design, making it easier to hold and to use. With a standard 1/4-inch collet, it accepts all of your favorite grinding stones and rotary files. 20,000 RPM free-speed with only 4 CFM air consumption, lever thottle for feather-touch control. Rear-air flow system keeps the exhaust away from from work. 6-inch length, 1.5 lb working weight.

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Black & Decker 7750 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder

Black Friday Black & Decker 7750 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder 2011 Deals

Nov 18, 2011 19:51:17

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Black Friday Black & Decker 7750 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder Feature

• Powerful 5.5 Amp motor; operates at 10,000 RPM
• 2-position side handle and contoured body grip for added comfort and control
• Spindle Size: 5/8 to 11 inches
• Two year limited warranty
• Included with angle grinder: metal grinding wheel and spanner wrench

Black Friday Black & Decker 7750 4-1/2-Inch Small Angle Grinder Overview

5.5A 4 1 2'' 10,000 RPM angle grinder. Metal gear housing disperses heat for increased life of tool and durability. 2 position side handle design for comfort and control. Spindle lock for easy disc change. Easy use slide switch. 5 8'' 11 spindle. Includes metal grinding wheel and wrench.

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Hitachi G12SR3 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder

Black Friday Hitachi G12SR3 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder 2011 Deals

Nov 17, 2011 18:37:39

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Black Friday Hitachi G12SR3 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder Feature

• Extended-life auto-stop carbon brushes
• Six amp motor
• Compact and lightweight
• Side handle and 5 abrasive discs included
• 30-day satisfaction guarantee and 1-year warranty

Black Friday Hitachi G12SR3 4-1/2-Inch Angle Grinder Overview

Includes: Wrench, Side Handle, (5) Grinding Wheels, Plastic Carrying Case. 3.1 lbs. lightweight design facilitates maneuverability and is excellent for overhead applications. Amps: 6. Wheel Diameter: 4-1/2". Switch Type: Slide. Max. Watts Out: 780. No-Load Speed: 10,000 RPM. Spindle Thread: 5/8" x 11 UNC. Spindle Lock: Yes. Sealed Switch: Yes. Tool Length: 10". Tool Weight: 3.1 lbs.

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The Three Major Types of Power Tool Batteries

Cordless tool batteries are certainly a requirement in order for us to be able to use cordless power tools like a cordless power drill, hedge trimmer, leaf blower and many more. When buying a cordless power tool for your household projects, keep in mind that battery voltage is not the only important factor to consider. Other factors such as the battery's amp/hour capacity as well as its type should not be taken for granted when purchasing batteries for your cordless power tools.

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Cordless tool batteries are available up to 36 volts. A 19.2-volt battery or even a 14.4-volt one can surpass the battery rating of a 36-volt battery if those batteries with lower voltage capacity have higher amp/hour capacity than the latter. In rating cordless tool batteries, voltage as well as Amp hour is considered. Ampere-hour is a measure of how long the battery can last, while voltage is a measure of the battery's electric current or power. Thus, basing on the information mentioned, the higher the voltage and the higher the amp/hour capacity, the more powerful the battery is.

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The usual sizes available for cordless tools are 1.2, 2.4 and 3.0 Amp / hour. It's at the bottom part of the battery or sometimes on both sides where you locate the label that describes the batteries amp/hour rating.

There are three (3) major types that are used for modern cordless power tools. These include: Lithium Ion (Li-Ion), Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH).

Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) offer up to 400 charge cycles before needing a replacement. Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) can last more than 400 times of recharge. Whereas, Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries can power up your cordless power tools with a lifespan of more than 1,200 times recharges (as per manufacturer's product description) before a required replacement.

What about their charging time? Majority of older ones need 6 hours of recharging time yet last only an hour when used for works. When buying batteries your cordless power tools, charging time should be put into consideration. You do not want to waste your precious time while working, just waiting for the battery to be fully charged. Using Lithium Ion battery can certainly overcome this problem and it is the best way since this battery only takes 15 minutes to recharge.

We usually follow the recommendation of the manufacturer when it comes to maintaining cordless power tool batteries. This usually involves replacement batteries that sometimes force you to spend money. Similar to your power tools including their parts, cordless tool batteries come with service warranty.

The Three Major Types of Power Tool Batteries

4 Angle Grinder

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Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch Angle Ginder with Paddle Switch

Black Friday Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch Angle Ginder with Paddle Switch 2011 Deals

Nov 15, 2011 18:43:07

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Black Friday Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch Angle Ginder with Paddle Switch Feature

• Powerful 13 AMP motor delivers more output for increased performance
• Super Joint System (SJS) helps prevent gear damage
• Labyrinth construction seals the motor from dust and debris by creating a complex set of channels prohibiting contamination
• Large ergonomic paddle-switch for operator comfort
• 1 year warranty

Black Friday Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch Angle Ginder with Paddle Switch Overview

The Makita 9564PC is a 4-1/2-Inch SJS (Super Joint System) Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch.

Features:

• Powerful 13.0 Amp motor delivers more output for increased performance
• Super Joint System (SJS) helps prevent gear damage
• Gear housing rotates 90 for operator convenience
• Refined design at only 4.2-pounds
• Labyrinth construction seals the motor from dust and debris by creating a complex set of channels prohibiting contamination
• Large ergonomic paddle-switch for operator comfort
• Tool-less wheel cover for easy wheel change
• Ideal for Welders, Fabricators, Masons, Maintenance/Repair etc

What's In The Box:

• Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch SJS (Super Joint System) Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch
• 4-1/2-Inch Grinding Wheel (741423-0-1)
• Side Handle (153489-2)
• Tool-Less Guard (135107-4)
• Inner Flange (224399-1)
• Lock Nut (224568-4)
• Lock Nut Wrench (782424-9)

Black Friday Makita 9564PC 4-1/2-Inch Angle Ginder with Paddle Switch Specifications

Makita's 4-1/2-Inch SJS Angle Grinder combines 13 AMP power with comfort and motor-protection features for longer-lasting industrial performance. The 9564PC is engineered with Makita's innovative Super Joint System (SJS) to protect the gears for longer tool life.

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9564PC Features POWER - 13 AMP motor delivers 11,500 RPM PERFORMANCE - Super Joint System (SJS) helps prevent gear damage DURABILITY - Labyrinth construction, zig-zag varnish and thicker coil wires for longer tool life COMFORT - Large paddle switch for easy operation; (only 4.2 lbs.) INCLUDES - Grinding wheel, wheel guard, side handle, inner flange, lock-nut, and wrench

Tool Specifications Grinding wheel 4-1/2" Wire cup brush 3-1/2" Sanding disc 4-1/2" No load speed 11,500 RPM Spindle thread 5/8"-11 UNC AMPS 13.0 Overall length 12-1/8" Net weight 4.2 lbs.

13 AMP Power with SJS to Protect Gears
The 9564PC is powered by a 13 AMP motor that delivers 11,500 RPM, with soft start for smooth start-ups. Labyrinth construction protects the motor with a complex set of channels, prohibiting dust and contamination. In addition, the protective zig-zag varnish seals the motor and bearings from dust and debris by creating a barrier under rotation. The 9564PC is engineered with SJS, an innovation from Makita that protects the gears by automatically disengaging the motor should the grinding wheel accidentally catch or bind.

Comfort and Ergonomics
The 9564PC weighs just 4.2 pounds and is built with comfort and ergonomic features for extended use. The paddle switch provides easy operation, and the gear housing can be positioned every 90° for operator convenience. In addition, the side handle can be easily installed on either side of the tool as well as the top, and the "tool-less" wheel guard adjustment provides easy clamping.

Versatile Design for a Range of Applications
The 9564PC is a versatile and powerful grinder engineered for demanding applications including cutting, ferrous metal, paint and rust removal, shipyard maintenance, heavy machinery, metal polishing, general steel grinding, auto repair work, cutting brick and masonry, and restoration work. The grinder is built for welders, fabricators, plumbers, masons, electricians, automotive technicians, stone and tile workers, HVAC, and general contractors seeking a best-in-class industrial quality angle grinder. The 9564PC is just another example of Makita's commitment to innovative technology and best-in-class engineering.

About Makita's Super Joint System (SJS)
Super Joint System (SJS) is an innovation from Makita engineering where the motor armature and spiral bevel gear are linked by a coil spring. If the grinding wheel catches or binds, the coil spring relaxes and disengages the gears from the motor. As the grinding wheel stops, the gears and motor are protected. Makita's growing line of SJS-equipped grinders includes models ranging from a 1/4" die grinder to a 7-inch angle grinder.

About Makita
Makita is a worldwide manufacturer of industrial quality power tools and offers a wide range of industrial accessories. Makita applies leading-edge innovation to engineer power tools that are more compact and energy efficient, yet deliver industrial strength power and results. Makita U.S.A., Inc. is located in La Mirada, California, and operates an extensive distribution network located throughout the U.S. For more information, please call 800/4-MAKITA (800/462-5482) or visit makitatools.com. Makita is Best in Class Engineering.

Warranty
Every Makita tool is thoroughly inspected and tested before leaving the factory. If you are not satisfied with any Makita tool within 30 days of purchase, return it and Makita will provide a replacement or refund. Each Makita tool is warranted to be free of defects from workmanship and materials for the period of ONE YEAR from the date of original purchase. Should any trouble develop during this one-year period, return the COMPLETE tool, freight prepaid, to one of Makita's Factory or Authorized Service Centers. Please see makitatools.com for complete details.

What's in the Box
Makita 9564 PC 4-1/2-Inch 13 AMP SJS Angle Grinder with Paddle Switch, 4-1/2-inch grinding wheel, side handle, tool-less guard, inner flange, lock nut and lock nut wrench.

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